5 Days of Dining and Sightseeing in Beautiful Budapest
- By Chrissy Hamlin
- Apr 28, 2012
- 17 min read
I spent 5 wonderful days in Budapest and can recommend it as a vibrant city with plenty to offer any traveller who desires real Luxury and anyone on a tight budget too. If the recent Wes Anderson film "A Grand Budapest Hotel" has played a part in inspiring you to visit - then you'll be interested to know that you can actually stay and eat at the 5 star hotel that the film was said to be based upon.
Budapest, the capital city of Hungary, has a unique, youthful atmosphere, a world-class classical music scene as well as plenty of lively night life for the younger visitors and many natural thermal baths for those who just want to relax. Budapest is one of Europe's most delightful and enjoyable cities and due to its scenic setting and its architecture it is nicknamed "Paris of the East". In 1987 Budapest was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List for the cultural and architectural significance of the Banks of the Danube, the Buda Castle Quarter and Andrássy Avenue.
Travellers are quickly recognising the appeal of Budapest, with tourism accounting for approximately 2.7 million visitors per year. Consisting of two cities with different flavours, Buda on the west bank of the Danube River and Pest on the east bank, Budapest offers travellers a unique atmosphere influenced by Viennese and Parisian architecture.
While Buda has been the capital of Hungary - or that of the Osman-occupied territory - for the better part of a millennium, it has become a grand cosmopolitan city during the country's fast industrialisation in the late nineteenth century.
Although Budapest is administratively divided into 23 numbered districts (always written in Roman numerals) it is colloquially often divided into parts, roughly corresponding to the two major cities of Buda and Pest, of which it is comprised.
Buda - The area west from the Danube (Districts I-III, XI-XII, XXII), also including Óbuda in the north, the third, smaller town before the unification.
Castle Hill - District I of Buda, the oldest part of the city containing the Castle and some of Budapest's best-known attractions such as Fishermen’s Bastion, the Labyrinth and Mathias Church.
Pest - The area east from the Danube (Districts IV-IX), traditionally associated with a more pulsating city atmosphere.
When you arrive in Budapest at the airport there are a number of ways to get to your hotel.
Airport Shuttle - Shared mini-van operation regulated by the Airport that collects passengers going in the same direction and will take you to or from anywhere in Budapest for HUF 3.200 per person or HUF 5.500 for a round trip. Buy your ticket and join the queue at the airport and you will be on your way in 15 minutes. For the trip back, call the centre at +36-1 296-8555 at least 24 hours beforehand and Airport Minibus will pick you up. Buy tickets in the Arrival hall and near the main exit. Will drop you at any address in the city and/or suburbs.
Taxi. The only contracted taxi operator from Liszt Ferenc airport is FÅ‘taxi. Depending on your destination, the cost for a trip to Budapest will range from 5,000 to 10,000 HUF. (Taxis now universally cost 450 HUF base price and 280 HUF for every kilometer. The inner city is around 20 kilometers from Terminal 2.
Private transfer. Online reservation: Airport Transfer Budapest. Specific Airport Transfer Service to meet you inside or outside, as you exit the secure area, with a sign with your name on it. If you have a particular desire to be met by a driver on arrival, or want a specific kind of car, or have special individual needs like a baby seat or wheelchair, you may want to book in advance with a specific airport transfer service or driver.
Be very wary of the so called "Taxi Cowboys" who solicit passengers, they will quote you a reasonable fare then demand much higher payment when you arrive to your destination. Stick with the Airport Shuttle, Reserved private transfer, Public transport or the Taxi Stand in front of the Arrivals Hall.
Getting around in Budapest
Public transport in Budapest is run by Centre for Budapest Transport (BKK). Their English-language website provides information on current schedules and fares. If you intend to travel a lot, travel cards are far less expensive than single tickets. Tickets can be bought at machines (that are available at larger stops) and cashiers (operating mostly at metro stations). Tickets must be validated on the vehicles (on the subway you must validate your ticket before entering the platform). Though most places you'll find regular ticket validating machines, some older vehicles only have mechanical ticket validators. When using these, you must pull the black lever on the top of the validator after putting in the ticket. It validates the ticket by punching holes in it. Certain groups, such as 65yr+ or blind people travel free of charge if the required proof is provided.
When using the public transport, you should always have a valid ticket or pass. The fine was recently raised to HUF8,000-16,000, depending when you pay. Sooner or later, you will run into ticket inspectors, especially in trams and buses on Sunday; they are also guarding the entrance and exit to many metro stations. They rarely speak English and it has been known that they are over-keen on handing out fines to tourists. They can ask for your ID, however they are not considered police officers under Hungarian law. If you do have to pay a fine on the spot, always ask for a receipt.
The Giraffe Hop On Hop Off Bus is a great way to see the City sights AND get around - plus you can also use the ticket on the Hop On Hop Off Boat too. Check out the short video below for what you may see if you decide to purchase a ticket.....
Where to stay in Budapest
The original Grand Hotel Royal in Budapest has been reinvented and rebranded like a phoenix from the ashes, under the careful eye of Corinthia Hotels. It has a fascinating history and was the basis for the recent movie "The Grand Budapest Hotel" by director Wes Anderson. There are many similarities. The Corinthia used to be known as the Grand Hotel Royal. The hotel in the film was built in the 1870s, the Corinthia Budapest in 1896. The film is set in a fictional city in a fictional East European country, the hotel just happens to be called the Grand Budapest. But much of the film is set in the 1920s and ’30s, at which point the Grand Hotel Royal was the most famous hotel in Budapest.
It was originally opened for visitors of the highly successful Millennium Exhibition in 1896. A joint-stock company, established by the most important hotel owners of the day, had succeed in purchasing the largest piece of real estate on the developing Grand Boulevard. By this time the Grand Boulevard had become the main artery of the Hungarian capital and the hotel rooms enjoyed superb views of this most attractive part of Budapest. The official opening ceremony was on 30th April 1896 attracting many visitors and after its opening; the Royal became a regular haunt of contemporary Hungarian writers and journalists. In its opening year, the Lumiére brothers held the first screening of a motion picture in Budapest at the hotel, an event which would later become a regular exhibition. While also housing a ‘cinema’ of sorts, several classical concerts were held in the Royal Ballroom, and Béla Bartók, the world-famous Hungarian composer, frequently conducted music there. From the Second World War until 1953, the Royal served not only as a hotel, but also as an office building. In 1953 the building was restored to become a hotel, but just three years later the roof was destroyed by fire. This unfortunate event forced the architects to reconstruct the whole building. The Royal was intended to be a hotel representative of the age, since none of the hotels which now line the Danube bank had been established yet.
Ever since it reopened, the Corinthia Hotel Budapest has drawn the stars to wallow in the luxury of its palatial Ferenc Liszt Presidential Suite. But it was ever thus with this Grande Dame of a hotel. Almost from the moment it opened in 1896, it was attracting the most famous, most creative of Hungarians. Very soon afterwards, the great and the good of the world stage were making their way to the Grand Hotel Royal. A trawl through the hotel’s guest book is like dipping into a ‘Who’s Who’ of music, movies, fashion and sport. There isn’t room to do them all justice here, but on our exclusive video at the end of this post. you can see some of the many famous names that have stayed there.
Furnished with luxurious beds and glorious marble bathrooms, the 28 Superior King and Twin rooms offer exceptional comfort and tranquillity to every guest. These rooms are designed for unrivalled relaxation and each comes complete with a view of Budapest’s streets and courtyards, as well as all the luxuries you’d expect from a grand, five-star hotel.
The Junior and deluxe suites feature a separate bedroom with a luxurious King size bed, and an expansive living room. Named for famous Hungarian composers, the Bartok and Kodaly Signature suites are even grander. Each features a separate bedroom with a luxurious Super King size bed, an expansive living room, a fully equipped kitchen, a dining room, and a glorious marble bathroom with bathtubs and rain showers In addition, guests are given free access to the fabulous Royal Spa and Executive Lounge, which features private check-in and check-out with welcome drink, a comprehensive library, business centre facilities, a boardroom, a television room and a selection of snacks and canapés served every day.
For the ultimate in Budapest luxury try the Presidential Liszt Suite, named for the famed Hungarian composer. It is the most magnificent suite available at the Corinthia Hotel Budapest and, at 240 m2, it is the biggest hotel suite in Hungary. This meticulously designed Suite features two separate bedrooms with luxurious Super King size beds, a Jacuzzi, bathtub, an expansive living room, a fully equipped kitchen, a dining room, an office room - plus all the benefits mentioned above for the smaller suites.
Where to eat & drink in Budapest
Budapest is famous for its excellent food, as traditional Hungarian cuisine is among the best and richest in Europe. Traditional Hungarian restaurants offer tasty food, often accompanied by traditional Gipsy musicians, who come to your table to play Hungarian folk tunes.
There are lots of places in Budapest that will put a filling meal in front of a weary traveler for well under 5 Euros, accompanied by an inexpensive half-litre of beer. For around 35 Euros a person one can have a gourmet meal that credibly compete with ones costing twice that in New York or three times that in London or Paris. Allmost every small eatery on any of the tourist streets posts a tourist menu or a daily menu (Napi Menu) and these are frequently three courses for very little money indeed. As always, stick to the menu and the value is real, even if the range of meals offered from place to place tends to be some variant on Chicken Paprika or Goulash. It is a common misconception that these are the only national dishes that Hungary has to offer. Hungarian food has an unmistakable character, often rich with sour cream, onions, eggs, butter, fresh produce and wine. Specialities include:
gulyás(leves) usually translated as 'goulash soup' - a filling meat soup (usually beef) with potatoes and paprika, among other ingredients. Served as main dish or as a (heavy) starter. The name refers to the Hungarian version of a cowboy taking care of a 'gulya' (cattleherd).
paprikás veal or chicken cooked in delicious creamy paprika sauce (not spicy)
pörkölt a stew with of sautéed onions and - paprika. Similar to what is served as 'goulash' abroad.
halászlé - fishermen's soup served differently depending on region
töltött káposzta - stuffed cabbage, the cooked cabbage leafs are filled with meat and in a paprika sauce, served with sour cream (similar to crème fraîche or crème acidulée)
Balaton pike-perch (fogas)
gyümölcsleves - fruit soup - cold, creamy and sweet, consumed as a starter.
Gundel palacsinta - Gundel pancake (crepe) - with a filling prepared with rum, raisin, walnuts, and lemon zest, served with a chocolate sauce..
Kürtőskalács, (chimney cake) a delicious sweet dough pastry which is cooked on a chimney shaped spit and coated in butter and sugar to form a crispy crust. After the cakes are cooked they can be rolled in a variety of toppings such as cinnamon sugar or chocolate.
There is also a great variety of wonderful pastries/cakes (Torta), some of which you will recognize if you are familiar with Viennese pastries. You may want to try Dobos torta, and Rigó Jancsi a light chocolate-cream cake.
Hungarian locals love cheap lunches,and the Hungarian word to describe a Cheap Lunch restaurant is ‘etkezde’. Visit Kádár Étkezdébe in Klauzál Square. The unbelievably simple and brilliant dishes are served in a very homely way. The floor and the tablecloths are chequered, the walls are adorned with old photographs, and the broth is just perfect. Since the eatery is near the Jewish Quarter, it also serves kosher dishes along with all the traditional home cooking.
If you are actually staying at The Hotel Corinthia, like we did, then you'll have a wide choice of dinning options there without having to leave the comfort of the hotel. You can sample authentic dishes from across the Orient at the Rickshaw Restaurant. If you prefer more traditional Hungarian flavours, or a selection of delicious Spanish tapas at the Bock Bistro, every palate is catered for. The Brasserie and Atrium restaurants or The Szamos Marcipan Royal Cafe are the ideal place to enjoy Breakfast or a specialty coffee and sumptuous cake, while cocktail connoisseurs can experience exquisite drinks at Le Bar.
Here are some of our tried and tested recommendations for places to eat and drink in Budapest:
The Orfeum Club at Hotel Corinthia evokes the glamour and excitement of the famous orfeums of the 19th Century when acrobats, singers, dancers and poets performed on a tiny stage in front of a tightly-packed audience. The bright lights of the orfeums have faded since the turn of the century, but not at Corinthia Hotel Budapest where the cream of the city’s entertainers converge to captivate and thrill their audience. Guests can step back in time, sip on a selction of a very fine cocktails, sample the bar menu, and enjoy a wide range of musical and theatrical performances. The Orfeum Club is located next to the hotel with direct entrance from the hotel Lobby. Admission is free for hotel guests. We spent a fabuous evening there watching a Liza Minelli Caberet themed show which was absolutley amazing
( see our video below for more details).
Robinson restaurant opened in 1989 on the small island of gastronomy at Városligeti Lake, a few minutes walk from Heroes’ Square'. Over the last 15 years it has gained popularity among the citizens of the capital as well as the expatriate community of Budapest. Numerous celebrities - Arnold Schwarzenegger, Sylvester Stallone, Robert Redford, David Copperfield and Larry Hagman to name but a few - have tasted the delicacies prepared in the kitchen of the Robinson. There is a Mediterranean environment, a homely atmosphere, live Latin guitar music and an excellent kitchen to guarantee a memorable evening spent here. Downstairs you have the main restaurant with a beautiful outside dinning area overlooking the lake and upstairs there is now "The Butcher", serving premium meat and award winning beef reared by celebrated Italian butcher, Dario Cecchini, from Chianti, Tuscany.
If you are a silver surfer, like me, who doesnt mind getting technological at the dinner table, you will really enjoy going "Cybergastro". At Kaja.hu's unique restaurant in Nagymező Street, you can order your food from a built-in computer in the table. Contemporary design, quality food and an ecofriendly concept are the buzzwords here. The super-modern system means you can order your meal with just a few clicks, without any human interaction involved whatsoever.
For those of you who hate waiting for food in busy restaurants, this type of ordering makes everything happen much faster. The menu is already in front of you when you sit down, and the built-in monitor and mouse means that you can order food instantly. It all takes just a few clicks, once you have decided on what you want to eat.
If you are a total techno-phobe, never fear, all guests are welcomed at the entrance and get asked whether they have visited the place before - if the answer is no, they get full instructions regarding the unique ordering procedure. Every guest gets a card, they get escorted to a table, and they can start using the system with their code right away. Additionally, you can opt to pay the bill beforehand, or you can specify whether you want to pay for the whole table's meal- or just your own which is great for a small or large party. Payment can be in cash, by bank card, or even by food tickets.
If diners have a problem using the ordering system or want to know more about specific items on the menu, all they have to do is click the "Help" button to summon a waiter. Anyone who is really not comfortable with all the new technology can request a printed menu and order through the waiters.
Going Cybergastro isn't just a hi-tech experience. The food is pretty good as well, and comes at a very affordable price. Grey cattle hamburgers, salads, soups and desserts fall into an average price range (1200-2000 Ft), but the daily menu is even cheaper (ca. 1000 Ft). Bigger groups won't get disappointed, either. There's plenty of space, great tables and even a VIP room for some extra privacy.
Sightseeing ships on the Danube that serve meals are quite popular with tourists. It's a way to enjoy a view of the city from the Danube while enjoying a meal of authentic Hungarian cuisine. Hungaria Koncert offers several Danube cruises, among others the 19 o'clock Dinner and Cruise with live music, where dinner guests are entertained by 3 members of the award winning Rajko Folk Orchestra.
This cruise is available everyday. The meeting point is at the Danube Palace (1051 Zrinyi Street 5.) at 18:30. Tickets may be booked ahead on the website or may be purchases at the cash desk at the Daunbe Palace.
What to see & do in Budapest
If you want to relax, and you are staying at The Corinthia, you must visit The Royal Spa for some much needed relaxation after all that sightseeing. Fittingly for the city’s premier luxury hotel, The Royal Spa is quite simply one of the premier pampering facilities in Budapest. While the crowning centrepiece of this elegant Art Deco building is the recently-refurbished 15-metre pool, originally opened in 1886, the extensive menu of 21st century treatments includes a range of luxury therapeutic body, face and massage treatments. The Spa also boasts a dedicated fitness room, saunas, steam bath and jacuzzi, together with various relaxation areas.
As an alternative, you can visit Széchenyi Baths at the northern end of City Park. There are 15 indoor pools and three outdoor ones. There is bright, clean atmosphere here and water temperatures go up to 38°C, just as the wall plaques state. Because they contain hot water the baths are open all year, and it's quite a sight to watch men and women playing chess on floating boards while snow dusts the treetops in City Park. The baths are open to both men and women at all times in mixed areas and bathing suits must be worn
Széchenyi Bridge - This twin-towered span is the oldest and arguably the most beautiful bridge over the Danube. It is named in honour of its Hungarian initiator, but was built by a Scotsman named Adam Clark. When it opened in 1849, Széchenyi Chain Bridge was unique for two reasons: it was the first permanent dry link between Buda and Pest, and the aristocracy, previously exempt from all taxation, had to pay the toll.
For shopping and the ultimate Hungarian food experience you must visit The Great Market Hall which is directly at the end of Vaci Utca by the Liberty Bridge. The market is on three levels: the main floor is filled with meat, fruit, spice, pastry and liquor stalls. The second level has prepared foods, also on the second level there are local handicrafts; embroidered clothing and tablecloths, leather goods, ceramics and some standard souvenirs. The lower level has butchers, fresh fish stalls and all sorts of pickled items. It opens each day at 6am but it is closed on Sundays. ( See our video below for more info)
Hungarian Parliament Building -The Eclectic-style Parliament, designed by Imre Steindl and completed in 1902, has 691 sumptuously decorated rooms, but you’ll only get to see several on a guided tour of the North Wing: the main staircase and landing; the Domed Hall, where the Crown of St Stephen , the nation’s most important national icon, is on display; the Loge Hall; and the Congress Hall, where the House of Lords of the one-time bicameral assembly sat until 1944. The building is a blend of architectural styles – neo-Gothic, neo-Romanesque, neobaroque – and in sum it works very well. You can join a tour in any of eight languages, but to avoid disappointment book ahead on the website.
The Royal Palace has been razed and rebuilt at least half a dozen times over the past seven centuries. It was levelled in the battle to rout the Turks in 1686; the Habsburgs rebuilt it but spent very little time here. Today the Royal Palace contains two important museums as well as the National Széchenyi Library. There are two entrances to the Royal Palace. The first is via the Habsburg Steps, southeast of Szent György tér and through an ornamental gateway dating from 1903. The other way in is via Corvinus Gate, with its big black raven symbolising King Matthias Corvinus, southwest of the square.
The Hungarian National Gallery is an overwhelming collection over four floors that traces Hungarian art from the 11th century to the present. The largest collections include medieval and Renaissance stonework, Gothic wooden sculptures and panel paintings, late Gothic winged altars, and late Renaissance and baroque art.
The Castle Museum, which is part of the Budapest History Museum, looks at the 2000 years of the city on three floors. Restored palace rooms dating from the 15th century can be entered from the basement, where there are three vaulted halls, one with a magnificent Renaissance door frame in red marble that bears the seal of Queen Beatrix, and tiles with a raven and a ring (the seal of her husband, King Matthias Corvinus), leading to the Gothic Hall, the Royal Cellar and the 14th-century Tower Chapel.
Fisherman's Bastion - The bastion is a neo-Gothic masquerade that looks medieval and offers among the best views in Budapest. Built as a viewing platform in 1905 by Frigyes Schulek, the architect behind Matthias Church, the bastion’s name was taken from the medieval guild of fishermen responsible for defending this stretch of the castle wall. The seven gleaming white turrets represent the Magyar tribes that entered the Carpathian Basin in the late 9th century.
The House of Terror - The headquarters of the dreaded secret police have been turned into the striking House of Terror, an engrossing and evocative museum focusing on the crimes and atrocities of Hungary's fascist and Stalinist regimes. The years leading up to the 1956 Uprising get the lion's share of the exhibition space. The reconstructed prison cells in the basement and the Perpetrators' Gallery, featuring photographs of the turncoats, spies and torturers, are chilling. The tank in the central courtyard makes for a jarring introduction and the wall outside displaying photos of many victims speaks volumes. The building has a ghastly history – it was here that activists of every political persuasion before and after WWII were taken for interrogation and torture. The walls were apparently of double thickness to muffle the screams.
Budapest Opera House - The opera house in Budapest stands as one of the most beautiful Neo-Renaissance buildings in Europe. It was opened in 1884 and designed by Miklós Ybl, one of Europe's leading architects in the mid to late 19th century, the Budapest Opera House quickly became one of the most prestigious musical institutions in Europe. Many important artists performed here, including Gustav Mahler, who was also the director for three seasons. The Budapest Opera House is considered to be amongst the best opera houses in the world in terms of its acoustics, and has an auditorium that seats 1200 people. The statue of Ferenc Erkel stands in front of the Opera House. He was the composer of the Hungarian national anthem and the first music director of the Opera. The other statue in front of the Budapest Opera is of Ferenc Liszt, the well-known Hungarian composer. You can tour the Opera House during the day and learn about its gorgeous architecture as well as enjoy a world-class performance in the evening. Guided tours are offered daily at 3 pm and 4 pm in English, French, German, Italian and Spanish. Tours in Japanese are offered on Mondays and Saturdays. Tickets are available in the Opera Shop and tours take about 45 minutes. Prices are HUF 2,900 for adults and HUF 1,900 for students.
Shoes on the Danube -Whether you are staying in Buda or Pest it is guaranteed during your visit that you will find yourself strolling along the banks of the Danube. Whilst the views of the river and city are spectacular, you will also find one of the most moving and unusual memorials . Sculptors Gyula Pauer and Can Togay have created a moving memorial that sits in front of the magnificent Parliament building on the edge of the river. What visitors will see are 60 pairs of rusted period shoes cast out of iron. Different sizes and styles reflect how nobody was spared from the brutality of the Arrow Cross militia (the shoes depict children, women, businessmen, sportsmen etc.). Behind the sculpture lies a 40 meter long, 70 cm high stone bench where at three points are cast iron signs, with the following text in Hungarian, English, and Hebrew: "To the memory of the victims shot into the Danube by Arrow Cross militiamen in 1944–45. Erected 16 April 2005."
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