Sicily; Gastro Tour Part 2: Ragusa and Porto Paolo Di Menfi

After leaving Taormina, we drove south towards the city of Ragusa which is built on a wide limestone hill between two deep valleys, Cava San Leonardo and Cava Santa Domenica. Together with seven other cities in the Val di Noto, it is listed among the UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

In 1693 the city was devastated by a huge earthquake, which killed some 5,000 inhabitants. Following this catastrophe the city was largely rebuilt, and many of the baroque buildings date from this period. Most of the population moved to a new settlement in the former district of Patro, calling the new municipality "Ragusa Superiore" (Upper Ragusa) and the ancient city "Ragusa Inferiore" (Lower Ragusa). The two cities remained separated until 1926, when they were fused together to become the provincial capital in 1927. The two halves are separated by the Valle dei Ponti, a deep ravine crossed by four bridges. The most noteworthy of them is the eighteenth-century Ponte dei Cappuccini.

While the upper part has its fair share of architectural delights, it is the smaller Ragusa Ibla down below that really draws visitors. Whether you approach it from Modica to the south or from Ragusa Superiore, the sight of the jumble of houses, churches and civic palazzi piled on top of each other, clinging to the walls of the gorge, is really quite breathtaking. Although seemingly Mediaeval from a distance, once you enter the town’s heart, the Baroque logic of its plan becomes more obvious.

What to see in Ragusa

The best activity in Ragusa is wandering; meandering along the character-filled lanes or clambering up the steps towards the upper town and enjoying the great, classic view over Ibla. This is an inviting town for even more leisurely pursuits - a long drink at a cafe table on the pretty sloping piazza in front of the Duomo, a wine-flavoured gelato, a splendid meal at one of the town's small restaurants or a stroll in the park.

The grandest building in Ibla is the cathedral, the Duomo di San Giorgio, begun in 1738 and designed by the architect Rosario Gagliardi. Up a flight of steps and segregated from the streets by ornate railings, this is the heart of the old town and contains some of its best, and most prized artworks. These include a statue of St. George which is carried around town in devout processions. Alongside the church is the small Museo del Duomo (open at weekends), a museum containing stone statues and reliefs from the original pre-earthquake San Giorgio and other churches, architectural drawings by Gagliardo, some extravagant reliquaries and gloomy religious paintings. One of the highlights is a nice little stone carving, from the 15th century, portraying a honey-maker (mielaio) with honeycomb and jug.

Ibla's lanes contain many charms, from elaborately-sculpted balconies to views over the narrow valleys below town. If you have time, it's a good place to explore, with some intriguing corners. A little tourist train (trenino) departs from Piazza Duomo and is an entertaining way of touring the principal streets.

At the end of Ibla's rocky ridge is the town's public park, the Giardino Ibleo. The pride of the town, these manicured and leafy gardens have views over the surrounding valleys and are the venue of choice for promenading locals as well as tourists. Watching three or four generations meeting up and groups of teenagers strolling arm-in-arm is a charming introduction to Sicilian life.

As well as exploring Ibla, most visitors will want to take a look at Ragusa Superiore. The two towns meet at a saddle of land marked by the small Piazza della Repubblica. One of the town's tourist offices is alongside, and also the attractive Chiesa delle Anime del Purgatorio. The upper town can be reached by an energetic climb or by the little local bus from the Giardino Ibleo or Piazza della Repubblica.

Ragusa Superiore is more than just the 'modern' part of town - it too boasts elegant streets and noble palazzi. It also has its own Duomo, the Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista, another eighteenth-century Baroque edifice. The main street, Corso Italia, which descends towards Ibla, is lined with attractive buildings. However, there is no denying that the best part of the upper town is the descent, via flights of steps or the winding road, towards Ibla, with the hilltop town spread out before the eyes in an unforgettable panorama.

For any traveller interested in Sicily's history, Ragusa's archaeological museum (Museo Archeologico) is a must. Situated in Ragusa Superiore, this museum contains some fascinating and important exhibits from the surrounding area. Interesting artefacts include an articulated doll with moving joints from a child's grave at Greek Kamarina, and the sculpture of a warrior known as the Guerriero di Castiglione. It's a bit off the tourist trail; we were the only visitors, our arrival surprising the chatting attendants. The museum is just off Via Roma - at a lower level, down steps from the main street - and there's an admission charge.

Between July and September the area is enlivened by the Estate Iblea, a summer festival of music and events around Ragusa. In October Ibla hosts a festival of busking and street entertainment, called Ibla Buskers. Other colourful events during the year in Ragusa include Easter and St. George's Day processions.

Eating and drinking

Visit La Rusticana (Corso 25 Aprile, 68) a small place with friendly staff serving local and Sicilian food - all the classics, from local antipasti through fettucine alla Norma to cassata for dessert. The food is defiantly casareccia (home-style), so expect no-frills pasta and uncomplicated cuts of grilled meat. Slow Food recommended. The charming interior features red and gold velvet wallpaper, a chandelier, crossed swords and scrawled autographs on the wall. Fans of the Inspector Montalbano TV series will want to eat here because it is used as the 'Trattoria San Calogero' and the cast of the series have left their mark. it's a cheerful, boisterous trattoria whose generous portions and relaxed vine-covered terrace ensure a loyal clientele so book ahead if you want a table.

Another good spot is the family-run Cucine e Vino (Via Orfanotrofio, 91) with a restrained atmosphere in a stone-vaulted and white-plastered interior, offering thoughtful local cuisine.

For a quick no-frills meal, visit Il Gattopardo, (via Orfanotrofio, 35) a friendly little tavola calda where you can join Italian families eating pizza slices, focaccia and the local stuffed-bread scacce at little tables inside or out.

One of the most picturesque places for a drink is at the outdoor tables of Caffe Al Borgo in Piazza Duomo. Close by is the most popular gelateria in the region, Gelati DiVini, renowned for its special ice-cream flavours such as wine and olive oil.

Ibla's tourist shops are mostly of the speciality-food type, and food-loving visitors can spend happy hours browsing, sampling and shopping.

We only had one night in Ragusa, so we did it in style and stayed in a fabulous old renovated building which is now a hotel with a fantastic restaurant and outdoor dinning terrace.

The Antica Badia Relais Hotel is located in the old town centre of Ragusa in a magnificent eighteen-century palace, just a twenty minutes walk from Ibla. A few meters from San Giovanni's square, it enjoys a spectacular views of the cathedral.

The palace was built by an influential family in Ragusa after the earthquake of 1693, following a neoclassical style. Later in 1821 the knight Schininà completed the work. A century later, the palace was purchased by the Minardi Family, and it is in 1998 that Giovanni Minardi, heir to the family decided to give new life to the palace and turn it into a hotel, offering everyone the chance to breathe the history, art and life lived there.

The hall has Baroque frescoes, and the staircases have inserts of pure white limestone. Some ceramic Caltagirone floors have been carefully preserved. Their are 12 stylish and elegant rooms, mixing vintage pieces of furniture from Sicily and Europe with more modern designer furniture. The rooms are finely decorated with chandeliers and quality fabrics. Some retain the original floors. All rooms are equipped with the latest technological additions, and our Magnolia Suite also had a Chromatherapy Bath and a small outdoor terrace with a seating area.

The Hotel has two restaurants. The restaurant La Cuisine is located on the second floor of the building within three wonderful Baroque style frescoed rooms. The intimate and comfortable dining room also gives you the chance to enjoy a romantic candlelight dinner with your partner. The restaurant La Luna Sui Tetti offers its guests the opportunity to have breakfast and dinner outside on the terrace on the top floor of the building, surrounded by the rooftops of Sicilian houses and the breathtaking beauty of the dome of the cathedral.

The cuisine in both restaurants offers a variety of choices and features typical Sicilian dishes prepared with local produce, paying particular attention to the authenticity and freshness of the ingredients. The use of aromatic plants from the garden of the house, turns the experience of the tasting menu into a real gastronomic journey that takes you through all the fantastic flavours of this fascinating part of Sicily.

WATCH THE 2ND PART OF OUR VIDEO REPORT - TAORMINA TO RAGUSA

PORTO PAOLO & VITTORIO'S

After driving for a few hours, following the coast around westwards past the ancient ruins of Aggriento, we eventaully arrived in the small costal town of Porto Paolo Di Menfi. We were here for one reason and one reason only. To dine at Vittorio's resturant for a few days and totally relax on the beach while staying in their adjoining accomodation. Vittorio's had first been discovered by the Chef Rick Stein who featured the small beachside restaurant on one of his TV programmes. The Unpacked Sicily team also visited a few years later and declared that it was probablyTHE best fish restaurant in Sicily. This small, unassuming place, in a very quiet little beach resort was the perfect place to unwind and get a real taste of Sicily.

When we arrived, lunch service was over. We checked into our room which was basic but comfortable and went back out on the terrace to get a drink. Despite the fact lunch was over, we were given, salad, bread, and a huge plate full of delicious cooked prawns and fried squid, with our chilled white wine. We feasted like kings whilst gazing lazily out at the beautiful clear blue sea lapping gently on the golden sands of the empty beach. No hordes of tourists here with umbrella's and sun loungers, no kids digging with buckets and spades. Just great food and a fantastic beach to enjoy in peace.

Dining on the terrace for lunch or as the sun sets with a plate of spaghetti vongole and a fresh filleted catch of the day sipping a glass of chilled white or red from the nearby Menfi vineyards - well what could be better! This is an ideal spot to base for a couple of days when exploring the south west of Sicily. Beware though, if you do breakfast, lunch AND dinner here you could struggle! The portions are huge and the food IS TOTALLY delicious.