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London to Paris on The Venice Simplon-Orient Express & The Belmond British Pullman

  • By Chrissy Hamlin
  • Jun 10, 2014
  • 7 min read

A work of art in itself and a true Art Deco icon, the legendary Venice Simplon-Orient-Express train offers travellers the chance to experience one of the most iconic and historic rail journeys in the world. Delightful vintage cabins, gastronomic cuisine and onboard entertainment make a journey on this private luxury train one of the world’s finest travel experiences. The golden age of train travel may have been in the Roaring Twenties, but the art of journeying in style is still alive and well today on the Venice Simplon Orient Express. The original Orient Express ran between Paris and Istanbul, but new routes and variations on the name were developed over time. In its pre-war years it was associated with elegance, luxury and culinary excellence, and it is these qualities that characterise today’s private train, the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express.

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If travel is all about relishing the experience of getting to your destination, on the Orient Express you cannot help but savour the beautiful surroundings, the opulent interiors and all the good food on the way. There are sparkling crystal, plush fabrics, gleaming brass luggage racks and polished woods a plenty. As you relax in your own cabin with a glass of chilled Orient Express Champagne, you can look out over stunning landscapes. and step back into a more sophisticated age and a gentler pace of life. You can connect with some other fascinating people too—like-minded adventurers who share your joy and passion for travel. I met 2 VERY adventurous spirited ladies who love to travel together since both becoming widowed a few years ago. They were in their late 70's and early 80's and were on their way to Venice. I hope when I get to their age I shall still be able to explore the world in this much style too!

WATCH THE OFFICIAL VENICE-SIMPLON ORIENT EXPRESS VIDEO BELOW.....

I was travelling rom London to Paris on the Orient Express and from the moment I arrived at Victoria Station in the morning I was greeted very warmly by staff at the special check-in desk and treated like a real VIP. After a complimentary cup of coffee I off loaded my suitcase and boarded the train ready for departure.

For the 1st leg of the journey from London to Folkestone I was travelling on the sister train of the Orient Express - The Belmond British Pullman. From the moment I embarked on the train I was transported back to a world of pure indulgence and I marvelled at actually sitting in the vintage carriages which once ran on legendary 1920s services such as The Brighton Belle and The Golden Arrow. It really did feel like I was a character in an Agatha Christie novel - but with no murder taking place and Hercule Poirot nowhere to be seen thank goodness! The BucksFizz and Bellini's went down well, There was a definite sense of glamour, fun and a dash of adventure present at dinning on a train. This is not something you do everyday!

The food served on the Belmond British Pullman for Brunch would rival anything the best restaurants in London could produce. Each course is freshly made each day using the best local produce. As the train journey's through the beautiful British countryside, the talented chefs lead you on an equally exciting gastronomic adventure. All the Menus feature the finest seasonal delicacies from the British Isles, crafted into classic and innovative dishes by the head chef and his team. Each course is expertly prepared in a cupboard-sized kitchen and is accompanied by the finest wines and a few indulgent extras. Nothing is too much trouble for the attentive waiting staff. Another cup of Coffee Madam? Don't mind if I do....

BRUNCH ON THE BELMOND BRITISH PULLMAN

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The Belmond British Pullman luxury train embodies everything that was fabulous about the roaring 20s and 30s. Today, each carriage has been lovingly restored and refurbished. Honouring George Mortimer Pullman, the father of luxury train travel, each of the Pullman carriages are individually named with a unique story to tell. Some have been used extensively by the British royal family. Others have carried luminaries including President de Gaulle and Nikita Khrushchev. The oldest carriage, Ibis, dates back to 1925. Others, like Audrey and Vera, survived bomb damage during air-raids over London's Victoria Station in 1940.

I was travelling in Perseus which was designed in the 1930s but not completed until 1951. Perseus was used in the special Festival of Britain rake as part of the Golden Arrow service. It formed part of Winston Churchill’s funeral train in 1965 and also took part in the last journey of the Golden Arrow in 1972.

We left the Belmond Pullman at Folkestone and went through the channel tunnel by coach. When we arrived in France there was a Jazz band playing at the station to greet us, and then we boarded the magnificent Orient Express for the remainder of the journey to Paris and got ready to experience a sumptuous gourmet dinner.

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This train is even more opulent than the British Pullman, and once you have boarded, your steward, all dresed in electric blue to match the train, makes sure he attends to your every need, whilst you enjoy a glass of chilled Orient Express champagne in the privacy of your carriage. From the 1920s to the ‘30s the carriages of the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express train played a significant role in the golden age of travel. I wasn't sleeping on the train, so my seats were kept in place the entire time but when I wanted to freshen up and get changed for dinner, all I had do Inside the privacy of my cabin, was to draw back the oak panels to reveal a washbasin and mirror and complimetary toiletries. There were also luxury, mosaic-tiled lavatories available at each end of the carriage too.

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After such a sumptuous brunch on the train in England, I now had dinner on the Orient Express to look forward to. Dressed up and feeling like a million dollars I made my way through the corridors to the bar for a pre-dinner cocktail and prepared myself for the sensational feast to come.

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At the same time, exceptional European cuisine was being freshly prepared in the train’s kitchen by Chef Christian Bodiguel and his skilled team. Fresh ingredients were taken on board at stops along the route. Looking out the window at one point I had spotted the chef inspecting lobsters from Brittany, tomatoes from Provence & saltmarsh lamb from Mont St Michel. I was lucky enough to get a peep into the kitchen area to see the chef's at work too. How they manage to create such wonderful food in such a small space is a testament to their skill!

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There are 3 restaurant carriages and a bar carriage on the Orient Express - all works of art in their own right and each with their own unique ambience and style. All three have been beautifully restored from original 1920s restaurant cars.

The Côte d’Azur carriage, boasts glass panels decorated by René Lalique, and was built in 1929 as a first-class Pullman. The faintly blue opaque glass shows classical figures with a matching frieze of smaller panels. The stylish carriage began in the Côte d’Azur Pullman Express before switching to the Deauville Express. It returned to the Côte d’Azur for winter journeys and ran from Paris to Calais for many years, meeting the passengers from the Golden Arrow. By 1961 it was in a reserve pool used for special services and was eventually stored at the Wagons-Lits works at Villeneuve. It was rescued from a cold and dreary siding in 1981 by Venice Simplon-Orient-Express and restored at Bremen.

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Etoile du Nord was built in 1926 in England, and showcases some of the most beautiful marquetry in the continental rake. It ran with the Etoile du Nord train from Paris and then switched to the Edelweiss based in Amsterdam. After running with the Lusitania Express from Lisbon to Madrid it finished service in the 1970s, travelling between Cadiz and Seville.

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L' Oriental was originally a Pullman kitchen car. Built in Birmingham in 1927 in the Etoile du Nord style, it ran a luxurious service between Paris and Amsterdam. It later joined the Lusitania Express. When purchased for the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, the car was updated and refitted with black lacquer panels.

At the heart of the train, the stylish Bar Car offers a welcoming environment in which to relax over cocktails & chat to fellow guests or enjoy music by the pianist, as I do before dinner. The Bar Car was built in France in 1931 and was based at the Gare Saint-Lazare in Paris. After the war it ran as part of the Sud Express from Paris to Irún on the Spanish border and from Paris to Toulouse in Le Capitole. Today it boasts a beautiful, Art Nouveau-style interior by Gérard Gallet.

THE BAR CARRIAGE ON THE ORIENT EXPRESS

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CHAMPAGNE DINNER ON THE ORIENT EXPRESS

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After dinner, we arrive in Paris at precisley 10pm as per the timetable. I didnt expect anything less.

However, when I leave Paris 5 days later to return to London, the rail network is in total chaos. French Taxi drivers have been on strike from midnight the day before, and today the French rail network is badly affected by industrial action. We sit in the station on the train, for at least 2 hours before eventually departing - giving us more time to enjoy the great service and luxury surroundings. An hour into the journey we stop again for some length of time, and then some passengers realize we are heading back towards Paris. A slight feeling of panic ensues in our carriage, which is swiftly quelled when staff come round to expalin what is happening. Some passengers are worried about not being able to get back to London. I am not at all bothered, especially if it means I have to stay on the Orient Express for longer than expected and enjoy a more leisurley Brunch!

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Eventually special arrangements are made so that the Orient Express can continue on it's journey to Calais & Folkestone. We are re-routed onto another track and eventually we get going again after another delay. No other trains leave Paris that day - only the Orient Express. At Folkestone we are transferred back onto the Bristish Pullman again, and over a sedate and wonderful afternoon tea we are taken back to LondonVictoria - and sadly back to normality and reality.

AFTERNOON TEA ON THE BELMOND BRITISH PULLMAN

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My gourmet trip on the Venice Simplon Orient Express was the train journey of a lifetime and one I will not forget in a hurry. The food was exquisite and I felt truly honoured to get a glimpse into what the Golden Age of train travel must have been like for the rich and famous in the 1920's & 30's.

i didn't take any video on the trip myself but I have found this great film on You Tube uploaded by dedicated train enthusiast Mark Smith of www.seat61.com who did exactly the same journey as me.

This is the Orient Express journey almost exactly as I experienced it in June 2014...Enjoy the journey!

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