Following the Foodie Hippy Trail to Magical Marrakesh

Marrakech is probably one of the most exotic places you can travel to from London on a flight that takes less than 5 hours. Forget Greece or Portugal - go that little but further and try Marrakech for an unforgettable break in a place that has great food and plenty of culture to soak up. I spent 5 wonderful days exploring here in 2013 and would highly recommend it as a fantastic place to go for a short break or a longer holiday. If you have never been to North Africa then Marrakech is a real eye opener and a completely different holiday experience, full of magical promise and charm. For me, the mention of Marrakech had always conjoured up colourful images of busy Souks, camels, and of course the famous hippy trail. One of my favourite songs from the 1970's is Crosby, Stills & Nash's "The Marrakech Express" because after visiting Marrakech, I now realize that the lyrics perfectly capture the very essence of the city. The Rolling Stones also discovered Morocco in the mid-Sixties, lured by the 'anything goes' atmosphere. Marrakech became the band's favourite bolthole from the outrage they had unleashed in Europe with their long hair and raunchy blues music. There they could escape their persecutors and fans alike, strutting around in hooded djellabas and Berber jewellery, plundering the souk for carpets and ornaments to fill their mansions.

It was in Marrakech that The Stones tried in vain to seek refuge during the worst crisis of their career when Mick Jagger and Keith Richards had been arrested for drug possession by police in Britain and were awaiting a trial that would become the most notorious court case of the decade. The trip to Morocco was meant to be a respite before the screaming headlines of the approaching 'summer of love'. Instead guitarist, Brian Jones, fought with his model girlfriend Anita Pallenberg so badly, that she ended up dumping him in Morocco and going back to the UK with Richards in his Bentlley.

For me, visiting Morocco was not only a chance to follow in the footsteps of one of my favourite bands, and also a chance to sample some of the amazing food and dishes that this country has to offer. Morocco is a fascinating country with its mix of Arab and French, seasoned, as in a tagine pot, with the indigenous cultures of Berber and nomadic Tuareg, and the lingering legacy of Spain.

The name Marrakech originates from the Berber for "Land of God." It is the third largest city in Morocco, after Casablanca and Rabat, and lies near the foothills of the snow-capped Atlas Mountains. It is a few hours from the the Sahara Desert and it's location and contrasting landscape has made it an enviable holiday destination. Although it is an Islamic Country, you will find less fanatical fundamentalism here than in any other Arabic speaking destination.

The city is divided into two distinct parts: the Medina, the historical old city, and the new European modern district called Gueliz or Ville Nouvelle. The Medina is full of intertwining narrow passageways and local shops full of character. In contrast, Gueliz plays host to the more modern restaurants, fast food chains, big brand stores and large Hotel complexes.

Djemma el Fnaa - The Main Square in Marrakech

Djemaa el Fnaa is Marrakech's huge central square - the traditional meeting place for the local musicians who so fascinated the Stones guitarist, Brian Jones - an early proponent of world music. Indeed, it was to here that Brian was decoyed on that fateful day in 1967 when Keith Richards stole Anita Pallenberg from him.

Musicians, dancers, and story tellers pack this square at the heart of the medina, filling it with a cacophony of drum beats and excited shouts. Scores of stalls sell a wide array of Moroccan fare. Enjoy the shows, but be prepared to give some dirhams to watch. By day it is largely filled with street salesmen who want you to buy their product or service. Ignore anyone who offers you something that you do not want or move away from them: They will be asking you shortly for (too much) money for whatever they are offering. If you don't want to pay dearly for a photo of yourself with a monkey on your shoulder or advice on how to get to where you are going, politely decline when anyone approaches you.

At night , Jemaa el Fnaa turns into an extraordinary spectacle, again as much for locals as tourists, with snake-charmers, Berber dancers and groups of musicians seemingly playing just for the love of it. It's a magical, almost mystical experience, walking through the darkness from one soft pipe-and-drum symphony to the next. The sights, sounds, and smells mean it is a sensual delight in many ways - and it is THE one place you have to visit at least a few times to fully appreciate. During the day, go for all the food stalls and the shopping, in the late afternoon, stop for a coffee or a cold drink and just people watch from afar whilst listening to the sunset call to prayers . In the evening you can soak up the atmosphere before and after eating out, and enjoy all the street performers.

Where to stay and Eat

The most famous Luxury Hotel in Marrakech has got to be La Mamounia, set in a grove of 400-year-old olive trees just outside Marrakech's rose- coloured ramparts, with the snow-covered Atlas Mountains shimmering on the horizon.

Built in 1923, La Mamounia was a celebrity magnet long before the Rolling Stones era and the 1960's. Winston Churchill discovered it after his 1943 Casablanca summit with American President Franklin D. Roosevelt, and returned there often, to paint. Charles de Gaulle slept here, too, in a bed specially built to accommodate his 6ft 5in frame. The hotel featured in Alfred Hitchcock's 1956 thriller The Man Who Knew Too Much and its avian population is said to have inspired Hitchcock's masterpiece The Birds. Mick Jagger became a regular guest in later years, after he had ceased to be rock's number one bad boy and become the darling of international high society.

La Mamounia reopened recently after a three-year £100 million facelift – something that Jagger and Richards could both use nowadays. The relaunch party was the best Marrakech has seen for years, with guests including Robert De Niro and Jennifer Aniston, and a performance by Cirque du Soleil. The old Art Deco interior that Churchill and de Gaulle knew has been swept away by super-trendy French interior designer Jacques Garcia, who was previously responsible for Paris's Hotel Costes and the revamped Ronnie Scott's Club in London.

Garcia's signature red plush and flickering candles are blended with traditional Moroccan and Andalucian touches using local materials such as unmistakable green tiles from Fez.

The subterranean spa is the most beautiful I've ever seen, with its avenues of glowing lanterns and a Berberblue steam room. Simply entering or leaving is an aesthetic experience, as twin sets of coloured glass doors in turn are opened with a perfectly choreographed movement by pairs of white-robed doormen.

If Luxury Accomodation does not suit your budget, and you prefer something more authentic and individual then try staying at a Riad instead.

We had booked a room at one of the best Riads in the city. When we arrived at the airport, we were told that our taxi would drop us off by the old Medina walls and we would be met by a porter from our hotel who would escort us on foot to Le Riad Monceaux

As the little porter scurried through the maze of passages with our suitcases, one terracotta walled alley looked very much like another, and for a while I was slightly aprehensive about finding my way around in this vibrant and exciting city.

The hustle and bustle of the Medina Streets was soon forgotten once we were in the peacful interior of our Riad - which really was an Oasis of calm to retreat to in the heat of the day. We were greeted with tradional Morrocan Mint Tea and our room was cool and quiet and traditionally decorated with plenty of lovely communal seating areas and sun decks. Many of the Old Mansion Houses or Riads within the Medina walls have been lovingly restored, and now offer superb Hotel Accomodation and Hammam Spa Facilities too. Based on the design of the Roman villa, Riads are characterized by an open central garden courtyard surrounded by high walls. This construction provides the occupants with privacy and also lowers the temperature within the building.

Dating from the 18th century, but refurbished throughout in 2002, The Riad Monceau is owned by the French artist Isabelle Aubry, a number of whose major canvas embroideries are on exhibit within its walls. The riad offers the warmth and conviviality of a private house with top-quality boutique hotel service

The Restaurant at the Riad Monceau, is one of the finest in Marrakech where you will find a harmonious combination of Moroccan gourmet dishes created and presented with French haute cuisine refinement. Try the “Discovery Tasting Menu”, a culinary voyage that Chef Rachida Sahnoune,creates every morning exclusively from the day’s fresh market produce.

The Discovery Menu consists of a choice of 2 starters, 1 main and 1 dessert, followed by the traditional mint tea. Its price is approx 450 MAD (40 euros) per person, drinks not included. As Restaurant Riad Monceau is fully licensed you’ll be able to enjoy a great choice of some of the best Moroccan wines, as well as cocktails and selected French Champagnes.

The Riad Monceau Cookery School

The Restaurant Riad Monceau provides the perfect setting for the famous MarrakChef cooking workshops, giving food enthusiasts – beginners as well as advanced – a chance to discover the secrets of some of the best Moroccan recipes in a professional but relaxed atmosphere.

Led by Chef Rachida Sahnoune, the Moroccan cookery workshops only have a small number participants in order to make sure that guests experience a real ‘hands-on’ approach to cooking and learning. I loved cooking Morrocan dishes with Rachida's help - and despite my poor French we managed to communicate OK and she was a fantastic teacher!

We really enjoyed making our Chicken and Berber Tagines with vegetable mhancha and tomato compote. The nice part is ( as long as your lesson went well) that you then get to eat what you have made for your own lunch! Best to get it right if you want a good feast!

Le Marrakchi is opposite the market and adjacent to the newspaper stand. With two main courses and wine running at around Dh 300, this is one of the poshest restaurants in the main square. The food is not necessarily better than elsewhere, but it is one of the few restaurants that serves alcohol. It also has a completely enclosed upstairs terrace, which is ideal for views of the square when the weather is bad. You will also be treated to local musicians and belly-dancing. The vibrant, low lit atmosphere is fantastic here and gives you a real taste of a typical Moroccan evening out.

WATCH THIS VIDEO FROM FELLOW TRAVEL BLOGGER WWW.DAVIDSBEENHERE.COM TO SEE EXACTLY WHAT YOU CAN EXPECT FROM DINNING AT THE MARRAKCHI

If you want a change from upmarket Gourmet Morrocan food, do what the locals do and try eating at the food stalls in the square. It is a common misconception that these stalls are here for the tourists. Actually, they have been in existence long before Marrakech became a tourist destination. All of the stalls can be regarded as perfectly safe to eat at. They are strictly licensed and controlled by the government, especially now as it is a popular holiday destination for tourists.

Street vendors offer fresh orange juice (jus d'orange) by the glass for Dh 4. Try it with a dash of salt like the locals, but be wary of vendors who try to water the juice down with tap water. Also, pay attention when you buy as they offer 2 types of orange...the blood orange juice costs Dh 10 per glass and a misunderstanding on what you want to drink could occur. Confirm the price of your orange juice and pay for it before you drink. Unscrupulous vendors will sometimes try to charge you Dh 10 for a Dh 4 glass of jus d'orange, so don't accept your drink until you've paid the correct amount. They do not always clean the glasses very well. It is possible to get an upset stomach from the juice. However, many vendors will give you the juice in a plastic cup instead of glass for 1 Dh extra.

Some tips on eating and buying street food:

• Mathematical "errors" are often made by staff when they're making the bill. So-called "freebies", like olives and bread (which are supposed to be free) then incur a 5-10 Dirham charge. Smaller portions are often served to tourists. The staff may appear very friendly and witty, but it's all pretense. They want your money and will do what they can, even cheat and lie to you, to get it. You have been warned.

• Prices tend to vary a little. Depending upon how hungry you are, you can pay anything from Dh 10 for a bread filled with freshly grilled sausages or perhaps a bowl of harira soup to Dh 100 for a full three course meal with salad, bread, starter, main course, and tea.

• Try harira (great soup, of lamb/beef, red lentils and vegetables) and the fried aubergines. Don't be afraid -- try the lamb head: it's really tasty. The "bull stew" (beef stew) should also be given a chance in the same stalls.

• Don't miss the tea! There is a row of tea sellers along the front of the food stalls who each sell tea for about Dh 5 each (as of April 2013). Most of the tea at these stalls is ginseng tea with cinnamon and ginger... most delicious and welcoming. They also have cake, made of basically the same spices, which can be a bit overpowering.

• All food stalls at Djemaa El Fna display the price on the menus, making it less likely you'll be overcharged, but many will bring starters to you without asking, then charge for them at the end.

• Drinks are rarely on the menu so it is better to ask the price of them before ordering, as they can often be comparatively high. On the other hand, some stalls offer free mint tea to encourage you to choose them.

Early mornings, look for people frying riifa in the covered part opposite the Koutoubia. Riifa is dough stretched and flattened and folded over, then cooked in a frying pan, and is best described as a Moroccan version of a pancake or crepe

Shopping in The Souks

The day I visited the souks, tourists were far outnumbered by locals, wonderfully comfortable-looking in their unisex djellabas, doing their everyday shopping among pyramids of olives in every shade from black to rose. Many women wore hijabs, but in attractive shades of pale violet or pea-green, with only the occasional smudge of fundamentalist black. Now and again, a man would pass, wheeling a handcart of CDs with a sound system broadcasting readings from the Koran.

I was, of course, entreated to buy everything from a hand-woven Berber carpet and miniature Tuareg scimitar to a hubble-bubble pipe just like The Rolling Stones once used. But the huckstering was never too aggressive, and was usually accompanied by tremendous charm. I was even jokingly bartered for at one clothing stall, where the owner said he would take me as a wife if I had a dowry of 100 camels

Along with the major souk adjacent to the Djemaa El-Fna, there are a plethora of smaller souks throughout the city where any number of products can be bargained for. Keep an eye out for a wide array of hand-crafted candle-holding lanterns, as well as spectacular displays of local spices. Follow the coloured numbers above the entrances and exits of each Souk and you wont get lost as long as you follow them in the correct sequence.

Argan oil, produced only in Morocco, is used in Moroccan cooking and beauty treatments. If you enjoy its unique nutty flavor, pick some up in the souks. It will cost you about Dh 70 at local supermarket for cooking oil or Dh 200 for genuine cosmetic oil. Marrakech is home to a large tanning industry, and leather goods of high quality can be bought here cheaply. Check out camel leather items especially jackets, round poufs, and handbags.

For shoes, always check they have no paper inside the 'sole' because it is very common. Don't be fooled by demonstrations of how they bend the shoe and turn it back to the position. Try it yourself by feeling and hearing how the paper bends. For poor quality ones, you shouldn't pay more than Dh 40 and for good ones no more than Dh 90. Shop around and learn the difference between the quality.

Also of interest are items made of the local cactus silk, which is really rayon, a natural fiber made of plant cellulose and produced in Morocco. Rayon holds the chemical dyes well which accounts for the vibrant range of true colors (natural dyes cannot produce a "true" color). On offer are scarves, handbags, tablecloths, bedspreads and throws in stunning colors. Some merchants try to charge a premium price for this "cactus silk". Check well because there are many fakes and sellers will usually tell any lie to get you to pay a high price.

Wander round the potters' souk, and look for brightly colored platters and bowls, as well as tagines in all sizes. Lovely cashmere shawls can be had for less than a fiver with a little bargaining.

Haggling is fun if you are confident but if you cannot stand the bargaining, there are two government-run shops where you can buy handicrafts at fixed prices. Look for boutique d'artisans. One is near Djemaa El-Fna while the other one is in the Ville Nouvelle.

An option to explore the souks in a more tranquil way is to go during the Friday prayer. Although some shops will be closed, most stay open and are significantly less crowded than at other times.

Henna Tattoos

There are often people in Djemaa El-Fna offering henna tattoos, which are popular with locals and tourists alike. But among the many genuine traders are one or two scam artists.

If you do not want a tattoo done, keep your hands well away from them as they will grab you hand and begin a design anyway, later demanding massive payments, in whatever currency you have.

If you DO want a tattoo, always agree on a firm price before any work starts. If you can't do this, insist that the operator stops immediately -- then go to another (hopefully more reliable) operator to get your design completed. If they say it is free before they start or while they are doing it, they will always ask for a price later on. If this happens to you, you can walk away without paying; however, they will harass you for a little before giving up and moving on to another tourist.

There have been stories of these scam artists using henna mixed with dangerous chemicals, such as PPD (this is sometimes done to make the tattoos appear black), which can cause skin damage or severe allergic reactions. If in doubt, insist on any other colour rather than Black or walk away and find another artist.

Hot Air Ballooning, Breakfast at a Berber Village, and Camel Rides

One of the highlights of our trip - which we had prebooked beforehand with the excellent company Marrakech By Air - was a hot air balloon ride over the Atlas mountains at sunrise followed by breakfast at a traditional Berber Village and a camel ride. We met our Driver and 2 other couples on the outskirts of the main square at 4.30am in the morning and were taken by Land Rover to a Berber Village where we were given a much needed strong cup of coffee whilst our hardworking crew set up the balloon.

The flight was a fantastic experience. Watching the sunrise over the Atlas Mountains was one of the coolest things I have ever done. I didn't feel at all scared - in fact cruising along in total silence, floating way above the ground, was one of the most tranquil things I have ever had the pleasure of doing. Watch our video at the end of the blog to see exactly what we saw and did! It's absolutley breathtaking and we got some great arial footage!

After the flight we were given a typical Berber Breakfast and spent time looking round one of the village houses before going on a camel ride. I had never ridden a camel before, and I have to say that mounting and dismounting can be a bit difficult, but once on the animal, I had no problem with it! They also gave me the most difficult camel, who was trying to bite the handler, which worried me somewhat - but I persevered and enjoyed our little ride out in the desert, nevertheless.

I would defiantley recommend booking an excursion like this as you learn so much more about tradional Morrocan Berber Culture and get to see a very magical sunrise over some really spectacular scenery.

Koutoubia Mosque

Koutoubia Mosque is the largest mosque in the city, located in the southwest medina quarter of Marrakesh alongside the square. It was completed under the reign of the Almohad Caliph Yaqub al-Mansur (1184-1199), and has inspired other buildings such as the Giralda of Seville and the Hassan Tower of Rabat. The mosque is made of red stone and brick and measures 80 metres (260 ft) long and 60 metres (200 ft) wide. The minaret was designed to prevent a person at the top of the tower from viewing activity within the king's harems. The Umayyad-style minaret is constructed from sandstone and stands 77 metres (253 ft) high. It was originally covered with Marrakshi pink plaster, but in the 1990s experts opted to remove the plaster to expose the original stone work. The spire atop the minaret is decorated with gilded copper balls that decrease in size towards the top, a style unique to Morocco

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