A Winter "Foodie" City Break in Vienna, Austria
- curvychristina
- Dec 4, 2014
- 15 min read
Vienna is Austria's imperial city - a city still infused by memories of the past glories and yet revelling in what those influences have created in this modern metropolis. For the capital of an "alpine" country, Vienna is not a typical city at all. It's big for a start - by Austrian standards at least - and it is one of the few of Austria's cities not to have any mountains in the background. Vienna, with over two million inhabitants in the city area and the surrounding suburbs, boasts a quarter of the population of the whole country. While much of Austria takes pride in what it means to be essentially Austrian, Vienna has become a multi-cultural - almost trendy - melting pot of influences from across the old Empire and the new European Union.
Vienna is, as the cliché goes, a city of contrasts. A city which can be conservative and status-obsessed - and yet one that can host the largest AIDS festival in Europe. A city which can celebrate the imperial glories of the past - and yet one where the left-leaning city government has made public services and social integration a cornerstone of its mandate.
And above all, it is a city that is "livable". Some capital cities overwhelm with their size and their suburbs full of people rushing past other anonymous commuters. Vienna feels like a city that you can grasp, that you can get out of (if necessary), that you can discover...
And really, that's what this blog entry is about. Discovering Vienna without the gloss of the tourist brochures, or the spin of the travel companies.
I have been to Vienna twice now. I first visited in October 2013 when I went to see a concert by Finnish Opera Metal Soprano "Tarja" at the Vienna Arena. I was also lucky enough to get reservations to dine at two of Vienna's top restaurants. I visited some of the historic museums and Art Galleries and also spent a few hours in the Marine Zoo. My second visit was in December 2014 when I went over to do some shopping at the famous Christmas Markets on a long weekend break with a friend.
*Just Click on the Headings to visit Hotel / Restaurant / Attractions own websites
RECOMMENDED HOTELS
Hotel Arenburg is situated on the world famous Ringstraße and Swedenplatz Station on the U1 line is just a short walk away. From here, you can be in the heart of the City within just 10 to 15 mins and there are also plenty of places to eat and drink nearby to suit all kinds of budgets.
The hotel is a small, elegant family run business that is part of the Great Western Group of Hotels. Rooms are spread over a few floors - but my family room was large and comfortable with views over the Danube and a spearate seating area. The decor is classically tradional throughout the hotel, with crystal chandeliers and heavy drapes a big feature. My Bathroom was large with a double shower but had no bath.
The beds are very comfortable with plenty of extra pillows and blankets provided. The noise from traffic is practically non-exisitant but the double glazed windows do open right up, with no saftey guard, meaning you have to exercise caution.
There is good lift access to all floors and free wifi is available, even if it is a little slow at times . Complimentary coffee is available for guests on each floor and there are large well stocked mini bars available in the communal areas. Complimentary fruit and water was provided in my room. The reception staff are friendly and speak good English. They are happy to provide free maps and guides for tourists, and can also arrange taxi transfers to the airport which is about 25 minutes drive away. Breakfast is available in the hotel and they also have Heidrich's restaurant which can be booked for Lunch and Dinner- but with so many other reasonably priced places to eat and drink nearby, you may decide to opt for the room only rate and save money.
Hotel Vienna is a friendly family run, boutique hotel situated in a quiet side street of the Leopoldstad district. It is within walking distance of Praterstern underground station and the famous amusement park. If you like modern functional rooms, then this is the place to stay. It is approx 25 mins drive from the airport and is an ideal base for sightseeing.
I stayed in the spacious Relax Suite which provides guests with a fantastic sensual experience. The spa area is on a raised platform and the luxurious bathtub has been integrated into the centre of the room. The suite also includes a raindance shower and the hi-tech infra-red lamp and chromotherapy features are perfect for relaxing and unwinding after a busy day of sightseeing or shopping. This room is great for those who want total pampering and a touch of self indulgence during their stay in Vienna.
The hotel rooms have modern minimalist decor and there is a "Guests Only" bar which is Ideal for pre-dinner drinks or an after hours nightcap. The Breakfast Buffet is very good, with plenty of choices available at fairly reasonable prices. The staff were helpful and friendly at all times. Taxi's can be ordered quickly when you want to venture out to eat in the evening but there are not that many restaurants nearby. There is free Wifi available throughout the hotel and there are lifts to all floors. Tourist maps and guides are all available at reception.
RECOMMENDED PLACES TO EAT AND DRINK
Steirereck Is a superb restaurant in the heart of the Stadtpark which offers guests an amazing gourmet dinning experience. Reservations are taken for both Lunch and Dinner but it is well worth the wait, even if you have to book a table months in advance. Dinners can enjoy modern Austrian cuisine of the highest level, which combines the best products and a passion for innovation. The 12 course tasting menu is highly recommended and staff will give advice on wines and serve appropriate ones to compliment each course. All the dishes are exquisitley cooked and beautifully presented - every diner gets a lovely set of collectable cards which tell you about each dish, how it's prepared and what ingredients have been used.
Service is second to none, and the overflowing Bread and Cheese trolleys have to be seen to be believed. The ambience is traditional and reserved, whilst not being too stuffy or over prentious. Prices, as expected, are very expensive, but a meal at Steirereck is worth every penny. This is a fabuous dinning experience that you wont forget in a hurry. Steirereck is one of the best restaurants in Vienna and in 2013 when I visited, it was ranked 9th overall in the world.
If you are staying at the Arenburg Hotel, then this amazing restaurant is within 10 minutes walking distance. It is on the other side of the River Danube, opposite Swedenplatz Station. Situated on the roof of the modern glass fronted Sofitel Hotel, it offers an elegant, chic, dinning experience, and wonderful panoramic views across the whole of vienna. Reservations are needed, but the food is fantastic and the service is outstanding. Try the taster menu with accompanying wines for the best all round dinning experience. The tables next to the windows are the most sought after because of the great views, but the general ambience where ever you are sitting, is vibrant and trendy. Prices are expensive but well worth it for the wonderful dishes you'll be served. The Ravioli with Frogs legs is out of this world, as is the Seafood and the melting Bombe Suprise.
Cafe Lutz is situated in the Museums Quartier. It is above a building in the main shopping area. Walk out of the station, in the general direction of the shops and you can easily find it on the left hand side of the street - look for the Cafe Lutz sign - walk up the stairs and you will find this little gem of an Cafe, where many locals also go eat. During the day it serves a very good breakfast and brunch menu as well as other light refreshments. Their Eggs Benedict really does come highly recomended. It is also a great place to stop for coffee and cakes in the afternoon. In the evening it becomes a trendy bar serving cocktails and snacks with live DJ's playing dance music late into the night - if you are 'young at heart' and like loud music then by all means check it out - otherwise just stick to a daytime visit and enjoy the food. Prices are very reasonable and the service is great. There is also a smoking and non - smoking section. separated by glass pannels.
Cafe Hummel is a traditional Viennese Coffee house often frequented by the locals. It serves a wide range of excellent food and is the perfect place to people watch or read the morning papers over a streaming hot cup of coffee. The service is excellent and despite the fact that all the waiters wear bow-ties, the general ambience is fairly relaxed and informal. Although it is situated in Josefstädter Straße, outside of the main city centre, it is well worth a visit. Just hop on the train for a few extra minutes and take a walk a little way down the street to find it's cosy tradional interior waiting to welcome you.
if you are staying in the Hotel Arenburg then make sure you visit this superb cafe bar which situated in the historic building just across the road. It also has it's own planetarium which is worth visiting and dinners can look out over views of the Danube. In the morning the menu includes a traditional Viennese Continental breakfast and assorted omelettes. I can also recommend the Urania Breakfast for two which includes Boiled eggs, Bread Rolls, Roast beef, Ham, Cheese, smoked salmon, Croissants, Jam, Yoghurt with Fruit and two glasses of Prosecco. Have this for Brunch with a friend and it will set you both up for the entire day!
TRADITIONAL VIENNESE BREAKFAST
THE LUXURY BREAKFAST FOR TWO
There is also a small but very tasty Lunch and Dinner Menu. I dined here twice in a row and found the staff attentive but unobtusive. Recommended starters include the Roast Beef with Pumpkin & Chesnuts and the Beef Consomme. The Urania Burger with Fries, Wienerschnitzel and traditional Tafelspitzer Beef with Apple, Horseradish and Chive Sauce are all excellent main course choices. They have a good selection of home produced wines and the prices are very reasonable. The food is perfectly cooked and well presented. In the evenings the ambience is warm and pleasant with unobtrusive background music to compliment your meal. NOTE: it can get quite busy at peak dinning times as many guests from the surrounding hotels also choose to eat here. It's best to make a reservation for dinner but you can just turn up on the evening and they will do their best to seat you.
If you want to drink aromatic coffee and taste exsquisite Austrian Cakes and Pastries in one of Vienna's most historic buildings, then you must visit the famous Sacher Hotel, home of the Sachertorte, a traditional Austrian Chocolate Cake which was invented by Franz Sacher in 1832.
Situated near the Opera House and Cathedral, the Sacher Cafe it is an elegant place to stop for some trypically Austrian refreshment. There is also a gift shop where you can buy all kinds of souvenirs - including Sachertorte to take away in a traditional wooden box - although you may find that it is slightly cheaper to buy it at the airport on your way home.
THINGS TO DO AND SEE
Urania is a public educational institute and observatory in Vienna, Austria. It was built according to the plans of Art Nouveau style architect Max Fabiani at the outlet of the Wien River and was opened in 1910 by Franz Joseph I of Austria as an educational facility with a public observatory. It was named after the Muse Urania who represents Astronomy. During World War II, the Urania was severely damaged and the dome with the observatory was totally destroyed. After its reconstruction, it was reopened in 1957. The observatory itself has been continually improved technically over the years. Presently the Urania also has seminar rooms in which wide-ranging classes and lectures are given, a movie theater that screens at the annual Viennale movie festival and a puppet theater created originally by actor Hans Kraus.
This unusual Aquarium and Zoo is housed in an old military building. There are many exhitibits to see, over a number of floors. There are lots of stairs to climb but its an interesting place and well worth a visit if you really like exotic animals and fish. It attracts a lot of younger visitors especially during the school hoildays and weekends, so for adults, a weekday visit may be better, as you'll get more time to see everything, and it won't be so crowded. The highlight is the deep aquarium with many species of fish including sharks.
St. Stephen's Cathedral (more commonly known by its German title Stephansdom) is the mother church of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Vienna and the seat of the Archbishop of Vienna, The current Romanesque and Gothic form of the cathedral, seen today in the Stephansplatz, was largely initiated by Duke Rudolf IV (1339–1365) and stands on the ruins of two earlier churches. The most important religious building in Vienna, St. Stephen's Cathedral has borne witness to many important events in Habsburg and Austrian history and has, with its multi-coloured tile roof, become one of the city's most recognizable symbols. You can also hire one of the famous horse drawn carriages from outside the Catherdral - a great way to tour the city if you are tired of walking and don't want to take a tram or train.
Christmas Markets
Vienna is famous for its Christmas Markets and here you can buy gifts, Christmas tree decorations, scented candles, toiletries, wooden toys, nativity figurines and other handicrafts before and during the four weeks of advent. The market I visited was the big Christkindlemarket outside the Rathaus but there are other smaller markets dotted around the city too. There are an abundance of food stalls selling Hotdogs, fresh soup, roasted chesnuts, delicious Viennese pastries and all kinds of sweets and candies. To keep the cold weather at bay, a glass of mulled wine or Punch is compulsory - pay a deposit or keep your pretty mug as a practical souvenir. It gets pretty crowded at weekends so be prepared to take a slow walk round and join the queues at the more popular stalls. Prices vary per item but there are things to suit all budgets and tastes.
Watch the video below from www.coolcucumber.tv for more information on what to see and buy at Vienna's Christmas markets .
Museums and Culture
The Kunsthistorisches Museum is Vienna's "Museum of Art History". Housed in a palatial building on the Ringstraße, it exhibits famous works of Art by Michaelangelo, Van Eyk, Carravaggio, Ruebens, Rembrandt, Vermeer and Brueghel, amongst others. It was opened in 1891 (at the same time as the Naturhistorisches Museum) by Emperor Franz Joseph I. The two museums have identical exteriors and face each other across Maria-Theresien-Platz. They were both commissioned by the Emperor in order to find a suitable shelter for the Habsburgs' formidable art collection and to make it accessible to the general public. The inside of the building is lavishly decorated with marble, stucco ornamentations, gold-leaf, and paintings. There is so much to see you will probably need to allocate at least half a day here.
The Museum of Natural History's earliest collections of artifacts were begun over 250 years ago. Today, its collections cover 8,700 square metres (94,000 sq ft). As of 2011, the museum houses approximately 30 million objects and the number is growing. The interaction of the building, its ornate decoration, furniture and precious exhibits makes the museum itself an artifact for historical preservation.
Famous and irreplaceable exhibits are displayed across thirty-nine halls. On the upper floor precious stones, minerals and meteorites (the largest display collection in the world) can be seen, along with large dinosaur displays and rare fossils, and along with prehistoric art works: the Venus von Willendorf, the skeleton of Diplodocus, a giant topaz crystal weighing 117 kg (258 lb), and the gemstone-and-diamond bouquet of flowers which Maria Theresia had made as a present for her husband.
The first floor displays the species variety of the animal world, from protozoa to insects to highly developed mammals. Objects over 200 years old are of interest, not only on their own account but also as historical records for the history of science and the art of taxidermy: numerous stuffed animals of species either extinct, or extremely endangered, have made the collections irreplaceable.
Note that some signs and explanations in the museum are in German only. Again, as there is so much to see here at least half a day should be allocated to get the most out of your visit.
The Vienna Arena is an alternative live music & entertainment venue, which is housed in an old slaughterhouse. Originally it was taken over by activists & squatters who have gradually transformed and developed it as a showcase for alternative culture over the last 30 years. Concerts, solidarity-events, and music festivals, along with an outdoor cinema are among the many things that the former slaughterhouse now offers to visitors. If you are "Young at Heart" and enjoy a variety of alternative rock music and independent film, check out it's event schedule and pay a visit. Note: It can be difficult to find on a first visit & Taxi Drivers may not be aware of where it is! Our advice is to look out for the Graffitti covered buildings!
WATCH OUR EXCLUSIVE VIDEO OF VIENNA FROM OUR FIRST VISIT IN 2013
HANDY HINTS AND TRAVEL TIPS
Travel on the Underground & Trams
Vienna's U-Bahn system is a simple way to get around the city and, along with the trams, is one of the most useful for visitors and residents alike. The network currently carries well over a million passengers every day. The Viennese affectionately call their trams "Bims" - from the word "bimmeln" (which comes from the ringing of the bell when the tram moves off).
Vienna Underground Routes
All of the lines run through the inner centre of Vienna apart from the U6, which runs just to the west of the centre.
U1 - runs from Leopoldau in the north-east to Reumannplatz in the south U2 - this circular central route used to run from Karlsplatz to the Schottenring but was extended for the 2008 European Championships to the Ernst Happel football stadium in the Prater area U3 - runs from Ottakring in the west through to Simmering in the southeast U4 - runs from the furthest west at Hütteldorf out to Heiligenstadt in the north U6 - runs from Floridsdorf in the north on the eastern side of the Danube through to the Westbahnhof and then to Siebenhirten in the south
There is no U5 because the original proposals called for a route which has been partly used by the extension to the U2.
Using the Vienna Underground
Tickets are part of the Wiener Linien system which are also valid on the buses, trams and S-Bahn. As in many other cities in Europe, the tickets must be validated before use - in Vienna this is done by pushing them into one of the blue ticket stamping boxes at the stations or on a bus or train.
There are many different types of ticket - the Vienna U-Bahn system publishes a useful booklet giving all the options. Those staying longer may wish to look into getting the 72-hour Vienna Card, which gives free travel on all city public transport as well as various reductions to museums, galleries, etc.
One unusual feature of Vienna is that tickets for concerts and sporting events sometimes include free public transport - check on purchase to see if this is the case. Children under six years of age travel free.
Tickets can also be bought via mobile phones and online, although a good command of the German language is possibly advisable for this...
The "Vienna Card" offers 72 (or 48) hours unlimited use of public transport within city limits and discounts at many museums, some restaurants and cafés, shops and other tourism-related services. It's heavily promoted but is it worth the price for you?
Comprehensive information about the Vienna Card and details about the discounts offered can be found here: www.wien.info/en/travel-info/vienna-card
A regular 72 hours ticket for public transport (no discounts at museums etc.) costs €16.50 (48hour €13.30) while the Vienna Card is €21.90 (48hour €18.90) so whether the Vienna Card pays off depends on how much you're going to take advantage of the discounts. The discounts, however, are only around 10 per cent of the regular (grown up) entrance fee, especially at the most popular sights. Some of the less popular places grant discounts of around 20 per cent. Also, the Vienna Card (just like any regular public transport ticket) doesn't include the Ring Tram.
You must keep in mind that students, seniors (usually 65+) and families are often entitled to much bigger discounts regardless of whether they are holding the Vienna Card. Also, at some sights you can get combined tickets for several affiliated sights which also give you a bigger discount than the Card. For example, at the Art History Museum regular admission is €14, Vienna Card is €13 and students/seniors are €11. At Schönbrunn, NO discount is given for the standard tours of the state rooms, only combination tickets including the larger tour of the state rooms are reduced for holders of the Vienna Card.
You should also keep in mind that if your accommodation is centrally located (1st district), many sights are in walking distance so that you won't need to use public transport very often.
To sum up, if you have a tight schedule of sightseeing for 72 hours and if you're not entitled to any other reductions, the Vienna Card can be worth it, especially if you need public transport daily because of the location of your accommodation. If you're staying less than three days it's unlikely that the Card will pay off because there are much cheaper tickets for public transport plus you have less time to make use of the discounts.
The regular 72-hour-ticket for public transport can be a good alternative. If you're staying during the week, even the weekly ticket (valid Monday to the next Monday, 9am) can pay off as an alternative - it's just €16.20.
